Why the Anvil Matters So Much
The anvil is your primary work surface — every hammer blow transfers energy through your workpiece and into the anvil. A good anvil bounces energy back up into the work (high rebound), making your hammering more efficient and less tiring. A poor anvil absorbs that energy as vibration and sound, deadening your strikes and wearing out your body faster.
Choosing your first anvil doesn't need to be complicated, but it does require understanding a few key things.
Anvil Materials: What's Inside Matters
Anvils come in several material types, and the differences in quality are dramatic:
| Type | Description | Quality |
|---|---|---|
| Cast Iron | Inexpensive, widely available — "farrier" or cheap imports | Poor — low rebound, dents easily |
| Cast Steel | Solid steel construction throughout | Good — suitable for most smiths |
| Wrought Iron with Steel Face | Traditional construction, forged wrought iron body with hardened steel plate welded on top | Excellent — classic quality |
| Forged Steel | Modern all-steel construction, hardened face | Excellent — top-tier performance |
Avoid cast iron anvils entirely — they look like anvils, but they're not suitable for real smithing work. The face is soft, will pit and dent quickly, and the rebound is terrible.
The Rebound Test
Before buying any used anvil, perform the rebound test. Drop a ball bearing (about 1") from 10 inches above the face. A quality anvil should return the ball bearing to at least 80–90% of the drop height. Poor rebound means the face is soft or the anvil is cast iron.
You can also ring-test an anvil. Strike the face with a hammer — a good anvil rings clearly. A dull thud suggests a cracked internal weld or cast iron construction.
How Much Weight Do You Need?
As a general rule, your anvil should weigh at least 50 times what your hammer weighs. If you're swinging a 2 lb hammer, you want at least 100 lbs of anvil beneath you. For most general blacksmithing, an anvil between 100 and 200 lbs is the practical sweet spot. Lighter anvils move under heavy blows; heavier anvils are more stable but also harder to acquire and transport.
Anvil Styles to Know
- London Pattern: The most common style — features a flat face, horn, hardy hole, and pritchel hole. Versatile and well-designed for general work.
- European (German) Pattern: Two horns — one round, one square — offering more shaping options.
- Swedish Pattern: A refined London pattern with a longer, more tapered horn and higher-quality steel traditionally.
- Fisher/Eagle Pattern: American cast steel anvils known for being very quiet (less ring) due to their construction.
Buying New vs. Used
New anvils from quality manufacturers (Peddinghaus, Refflinghaus, NC Tool Co., Kanca) are excellent but represent a significant investment. Used anvils can be tremendous value — a well-maintained 150-year-old wrought iron anvil can still outperform many modern budget options.
When buying used, inspect carefully for:
- Swayback (a sagging, concave face from heavy use — functional but not ideal)
- Chipped or broken edges
- Delamination (the steel face separating from the body)
- Cracks in the waist or feet
Setting Up Your Anvil
Mount your anvil on a solid hardwood stump or a fabricated steel stand. The working height should put the anvil face at roughly your knuckle height when you're standing with your arms relaxed at your sides. Chain or bolt the anvil down — a rocking anvil wastes energy and is frustrating to work on.
A good anvil, properly cared for, will outlast its owner by generations. Take your time choosing well.